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Day 125 – Cable ants and rock tumblers

Jan. 8 Joshua Tree Village Total driving so far 5,537 miles / 8,859 km
http://Our-Joshua Tree-hangout-on-google.maps
What the heck are cable ants and rock tumblers? … I did not know either before visiting Joshua Tree National Park. Up to this point I was only aware of the album cover of that famous U2 album.
We decided to leave the California central coast after the massive flooding in the Santa Cruz area and more rain forecasted for the week of Jan-9th. Joshua Tree National Park was on our to-be-seen list, and its desert climate makes it very appealing for a January visit. 449 miles / 718 km, a Saturday of driving, and we were there.
On Sunday we headed for the first time into the park and we saw a lot of cable ants.
And the park is all about shapes.
Strange shapes; and quiet, calming shapes; amazing colors; sparse but diverse vegetation; a kind of underwater world that emerged into the alternative existence of a desert.

Skull rock, a classic instagram location; this is after sun set, so amazingly no other people around except the model & the photographer 
amazing shapes everywhere 
did I say ‘amazing shapes’ … you should guess who the photographer was … 
a more meditative formation of which there are many 
one XT-version of the classic Joshua Tree Shapes, colors, big land, silence, all the ingredientsfor my personal ‘magic mushroom’ when taking my cameras out, popping two 128 GB cards into my Fuji medium format high resolution monster, loading 120 film into my Mamiya7 rangefinder (10 exposures, that’s it) and search for that special capture of … something.

Key’s view at 5,185 feet / 1,700m sea level, the park’s highest point 
large wind farms on the foot of the San Gorgonio Mountain – great ! Key’s point offers a great view on Palm Spring, the Coachella valley, Salton Lake to the left and the snow-covered peak of the 11,500-foot / 3,500m high San Gorgonio Mountain to the right. Over 35 miles of view.
What is astonishing that on most days, despite the desert climate, the view is too hazy to see Palm Springs. Reason: smog from the coastal areas, Los Angeles, degrading air quality…
The underwater world really unfolds in what is called the ‘Cholla Cactus Garden’:

already in ‘mushroom’ photography ‘high’ These cylindrical cholla cacti grow across the park, but in the garden area named after them, there is a whole sea of them. They look like reef corals to me.



It is surprising how much different vegetation can be seen:




Withered plant stock provides exceptional shapes as well:



The view from the north entrance of the park towards north, Mojave desert, is also striking:

leaves us still to define what cable ants and rock tumblers are … here a clue, if you look carefully:

More to follow on Joshua Park.
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Day 111 – Aloha equals Paradise?

Dec. 26 Kalihiwai Bay, Kauai Total driving so far 4,939 miles / 7,902 km
dream-villa-Kauai-on-google.maps
We are approaching nearly 4 weeks in Hawaii, staying on the north shores of Kauai, the most northern island of the archipelago:

I cannot describe Hawaii’s magic with a single sentence, since Kauai (and I guess the other islands too; Lanai for sure, which I have visited in the past) offers a special aura to visitors who want to see it.
Just skip the Hawaiian stereotypes we all know … surfers and big waves, coconuts (or coconut sunscreen), lei necklaces, hula dancing, luau festivals, cooking pigs in a pit, ukuleles, crying steel guitars, and close to that Elvis’ Blue Hawaii movie from 1961. (If you want to brush up on Elvis, try this: Elvis-Blue_Hawaii)

the classic pseudo Hawaiian style, a YouTube grab 
Elvis 1961, cover of his ‘Blue Hawaii’ album Luckily, Hawaii is different.
I can’t say how exactly it is different, that would require living in Hawaii. And I am not sure how different the islands are to each other, I speculate they are quite different. Kauai is more rainy, tropical than the other islands, green, lush, with amazing vegetations, and a bit less developed.
I asked nearly everybody I met and who lives on Kauai if Kauai is paradise.
I think the jury is still out on that. As expected, its not an anonymous ‘yes’, but its also not an anonymous ‘no’.
The Nature
Nothing for words, just take a look:

Hanalei beach 
undisclosed area flight towards the Kilauea lighthouse 

view from Princeville area on Hanalei beach The time warp
Kauai decelerates you.
Time runs more slowly. You decelerate. You look closer. You think in the moment, since nature is so overwhelming that all our errands, worries, ambitions, fears are so small in comparison. Call it “The National Park Effect”. I felt it very clearly in Yellowstone. People are relaxed, friendly, smiling, and everybody greets everybody when you pass by. You can’t do anything else than look and inhale …
and photograph :-):

light, ocean, beach 
that happy smile 
contemplating, slowed down 
just happy about those coconuts 

Surfers & surf
Yes, there is a ton of surfing going on. Its not a cliche, its part of the life style for many locals, it’s a true surf culture. Put the surf board in the truck, and go! If you walk along the parking lot of a public beach and you see trucks, not mustangs or sedans, you know all the people are locals.
Winter time is surfing time. The locals say the swell comes down from the Arctic Ocean, the reason the north shores have the big waves. The surf is stunning in its beauty, power and seductiveness. The telltale is that hardly no surfer seems to walk with the board into the water, they all run, obviously thinking ‘why wait any longer?’.
Locals surfing on Kalihiwai bay on Christmas Day 
that girl rips thru the waves 

local dude waxing his board on the beach, his truck right behind him; he came to Hawaii as a small child 
the ‘surf rats’ as our host called – respectfully – the young surfers 
The surf is also quickly deadly. Rip curls are the killer. They pull you out in no time. Folks like myself are destined to underestimate how fast that can happen just a few meters into the water. Turning on the brain helps, or simply listen to the life guards (if a beach has life guards). Today, on December 26, we see the red rescue helicopter going back and forth, searching, on the outer rim of our bay. The search started yesterday and keeps going on for the second day. The locals say its now just about finding the dead body.


searching for a 56 year old man (according news) in the evening, and the day after Surfing makes you happy, though. No question about that. Water, waves, flying over water, what’s not to like…

body surfers ! Karin and Ewa in full action Chickens, cars & albatrosses
Chickens and cars have gone wild on Kauai. The chickens are feral, the cars similarly are all over the place by getting dumped anywhere, on the side of the road, on a property. Luckily, there are more wild chickens than dumped cars.


two from my Kauai dumped car image collection The local hearsay is that the chickens escaped from their coops during the hurricane Iwa in 1982 and hurricane Iniki in 1992. Go figure.
If Kauai would need an island animal, the chickens are clearly outperforming the albatrosses.

The albatrosses inhabit for example the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge (https://www.fws.gov/refuge/kilauea-point). We caught up with them when our apartment host Claudia took us to the property of friends of hers close to that bird sanctuary. We caught them making out 🙂
Last but not least, something about food
Coconuts are abundant and tasty. They sell for $10 a pop on a street stand to make a point of how expensive food and groceries are. On average groceries in a store are 2x as expensive than in New Jersey, and this includes local grown products such as oranges. Crazy. Star fruits are delicious and beautiful. Food trucks are quite common and serve very nice food.


left: poke from a food truck / right: cocoweizen – an island version of wheat beer 
self-made salad spiced up with star fruits Fish can be delicious, but is also very expensive and locals complain that the ocean waters have been way too overfished. On days of high demand, restaurants might serve flown in fish. Also kind of crazy, considering that Kauai is in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

food truck served poke Is Kauai paradise?
I think its very close…
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Day 82 – By order of Darth Vader

Nov. 27 Mount Tamalpais and Bolinas Total driving so far 4,939 miles / 7,902 km
Bolinas-on-google.maps
A lot has happened since the Day 47 Schnitzeljagd post;
The Day 47 post was on front of Schnitzeljagd for weeks like Groundhog Day, since I got so busy with working, a week of business travel, us visiting national park places on weekends, buying a new car, registering the car with the New Jersey DMV as out-of-state purchase, watching the soccer world cup, and and and…
We started Day 82, the Sunday after Thanksgiving, from our current basecamp in San Francisco – the city is as great as we thought it will be (more on that later). We drove up to Mount Tamalpais in our super luxurious Grand Cherokee which nearly is a self-driving vehicle.
Mount “T” is of course very well known to the locals as a state park and recreational area, but I discovered it by chance on an excursion around 2011 on a business trip to biotech land in South San Francisco. Its a stunning area, and we have a self-made print in our living room back home from one of the wind swept trees on the golden hills of Mount T.
This is how it looked today, a bit hazy of course (and I was shooting into the sun):


Mount Tamalpais East Peak Roaming around the hills of Mount T we saw this orange beauty (I am not a fan of the current Corvettes, but the classic Stingray ‘got it’):


leaf springs, hm, but even with those the Stingray turned into a classic; not sure the exhaust pipes are supposed to run that close to the ground From Mount T we drove to an amazing village, that I had also discovered on this past business trip in search for food:
Bolinas … a living time capsule … a village where any road sign along California state route 1 that points the way into town has been torn down by local residents.
What happens in Bolinas ?
Surfing, most of all.
A little bit of tourism. But our waiter said that the Stinson Beach in the south and Point Reyes in the north ‘filter out’ most tourists, and only a few make it into Bolinas. Of course we were among those chosen ones.‘Filtering out tourists‘, that says it all.
Housing ranges from original homes in tear down condition to original-renovated and a few high end houses. To consider: water was in short supply already in the 50s according one ex-resident we chatted with. It is even more scarce today. In summer time, if a household uses too much water, the town just shuts down the water supply for that house.
(All you Lakers, running your lawn sprinklers at noon time, watch out what the future will bring.)

ocean house 
ocean house with boat 
fun details 
tear down (and car is for sale) 
entrance to a beautiful ocean front house 
American-Austrian style There are some other amazing sights in town, from the Grand Hotel to various classic cars:

the politically engaged Grand Hotel 
a church that fits perfectly in 
equally impressive to the old truck is the flower power motor bike 


RV’s also exhibit a special flavor:



There is so much interesting stuff and people to see, it’s impossible to not be amazed by Bolinas:

the Bo-tique 

gas station (at $6.99 / gallon, by the way) 
psychedelic seniors We finished off the day the same I had finished 10+ years ago, with an early dinner at Coast Cafe (www.coastcafebolinas.com); great food, locally caught fish and locally sourced ingredients:


Bolinas is a unique kind of place, as is so well expressed by the graffiti on the boat slip people walk down to get into the surf:
ART PERMITTED ON THE WALL
BY ORDER OF DARTH VADER -
Day 19 – Grand Junction, getting drunk in Colorado

Sept. 24 Kearney/NE - Denver - Glenwood Springs - Grand Junction/CO Total driving so far 2,328 miles / 3,725 km.
Grand Junction-on-google.maps
Sept.25 Colorado National Monument http://national-park-service-link
We started Saturday morning from Kearney and made a stop in Ogallala/NE, a town our newly won friends Diane & Bert in Chicago had mentioned to us. Its a few miles from Lake McConaughy (the locals call the lake ‘Big Mac’) and so it seemed perfect to continue Karin’s swim-across-America theme.


On our way to lake Big Mac we stopped at a rest area to check out a few folks hanging out there – turned out to be two couples of Jehovah’s Witnesses. I had a chat with them about their transition from Vermont, where they originally lived, to Nebraska many years back.

2x Jehova Witnesses couples. They did not try to preach to me when I chatted with them, very kind people The swim was ok, we actually swam in the Lake Ogallala, which is situated on the other side of the dam.
Nebraska was kind of surprising in the bareness of its landscape. The land seems minimalistic, but also captivating that way.

Nebraska fields; you wonder what you do in your free time – boating on Lake McConaughy is one answer Not minimalistic at all – the amount of small flies. You stop at a gas station and you fill up with both fuel and flies. Karin thinks the flies drive (literally) on the large herds of cattle you see everywhere. Big piles of manure seems to provide further evidence for the cattle-manure-flies hypothesis.

view on a big manure pile next to the highway
The drive through Colorado on I70 is beautiful. Feels somehow like being in the Austrian Alps, but the land is much drier and the grounds look really brown.


We stopped over in Glenwood Springs to have bite to eat and to see the well-known hot springs. It was in a way a shocking experience, the whole town seems to be one commercial tourist place. One is wondering how people who live and work there can have a normal life. I don’t think they have.

We arrived in Grand Junction late at 10:30pm and settled into our AirBnB.
On Sunday we went food shopping, then headed out into the National Colorado Monument Park.The beauty of the Colorado National Monument area made us drunk … visually drunk. You can see this on the grin on our faces:

that big grin when you are visually drunk The most amazing steep red-rock canyons can be seen along the 26 miles long Rim Rock drive. Besides being short on gas and having to turn around, gas up and come back, it was totally mind blowing. Photography-life pure.

one of many stop-overs for making photos 


Sunday was a day how we had envisioned it before going on the Schnitzel Jagd journey…
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Day 17 – Malcolm, Nebraska, population of 406

Sept. 23 Chicago - Omaha - Lincoln - Malcolm/NE - Kearney/NE Total driving so far 1,730 miles / 2,768 km.
http://Kearney/NE-on-google.maps
We started the classic drive west trough Iowa and Nebraska. It was quick to get out of Chicago and its easy driving on Interstate 80. Lots of people say ‘yeah, its only endless cornfields, just push through it as fast as you can’, but we really liked it.
The notion of ‘fly over’ country is crap, just wrong and sometimes pure arrogance.
You get the big sky feeling and we saw all type of pastel color gradients in the sky and the fields, and a storm far away that created a deep blue horizon. One also grasps the economic power of the agricultural business by the sheer dimensions.





Surprising facts, and love it: all across the I80 drive we say wind turbines in Iowa, a significant number if you add it all up. I like their elegant shape and its renewable energy. There are also plenty of cell phone towers along the highway, unlike in Pennsylvania on I80.

I fell in love with the huge corn and soya beans bins. The sudden outburst of a geometrical shape in a huge landscape is visually intriguing.

Further west of Lincoln (if you have kids, ask them what the capital of Nebraska is, and let me know how they did…) we decided to stay true to our mission of ‘seeing more’ and launched an excursion into one of the villages, triggered by seeing a particularly large battery of corn bins.
It turned out to be Malcolm, Nebraska.
Now that we have seen it, we really don’t know more about the 406 people who live there, but I uncovered some interesting facts:
- 97% of the population is tagged as white
- estimated per capita income in 2019: $30,000
- residents living in poverty in 2019: 5.6%
- estimated median house or condo value in 2019: $170,113
- median age is 32, 5 years younger than the Nebraska average
- 219 males vs 187 females living there – that’s a lot more males.
Not quite the Mountain Lakes demographics 🙂

beautiful Victorian mansion with an American Rambler in front of it; car sticker says ‘Believe in Unicorns’, how fitting ! 
main drag of Malcolm 
post office, terrific ! 
BASF office, a bit unexpected … 
another residence with strong character 
$50M plant, the cement unit was converted to mixing beans and corn for the storage in the bins. Business is going well right now. The plant got knocked down twice by hurricane in the past. The gatehouse guy was pleased that I wanted to take a photograph PS: no swimming in Iowa on Day-17, just driving …
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Day 16 – Farewell Chicago, we had a lot of fun

Sept. 22 Chicago (Old Town) - Grand Junction Not left yet - so total driving still at 1,079 miles / 1,726 km
Chicago, North Sedgwick Street, Old Town area
What a great city, Chicago totally blew us away and we had a ton of fun. Partying (Thomas & Becky wedding), hanging out with Katina & Curtis, inspiring apartment hosts, swimming in Lake Michigan, flea market visit, deep dish pizza, museums, Millennium Park, architecture boat tour, drone flying … a lot more posts to come.
Another look at Chicago – the ‘Gold Coast’ area (where Katina & Curtis live) from a drone flight:
Tomorrow a big drive is waiting for us – 2 days to Grand Junction, Colorado. 1,244 miles / 1,990 km, it will take us 2 days, arriving Saturday evening in Grand Junction:

18h driving time, sleeping over somewhere in Nebraska More to come about Chicago …
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Day 11 – One Groovy-Superorganism or Melt-ed in Chicago

Sept. 17 New Buffalo/MI - Chicago Total driving so far 1,079 miles / 1,726km.
Don't need a google-map link to Chicago (I assume)...
melted – to become liquified by heat
melted is kind of what happened to the crowd Saturday night in the Lincoln Hall in Chicago.
Oh yeah, we made it to Chicago last Wed evening, and I have gotten so busy between work Thu/Fri and weekend activities that I wasn’t able to post anything here. Chicago is fabulous, more on that later.
Saturday evening we went to the really beautiful wedding party of Thomas Wilson-Ansen, Katina’s and Curtis’ son. More on that later too. I sprayed my ankle that morning, and left that party quite abruptly to ice my ankle and take a med. It got much better quickly … and we decided we can still make it to the Melt The Band concert.
Its a super young band I am following for quite a while; playing a kid of coolish groovy urban pop (opinions will vary, how would you describe?) balanced across all of the instruments. The solo guitar player Marlo is the daughter of great friends of us. In the concert Marlo laid down a few fantastic solos, classic ‘guitar hero’ style that carries you away, I love that. These youngsters write and make such great music, that they are one of my playlist favorites. And I think they will make it big. I mean really BIG.
Check them out:
https://open.spotify.com/track/6fEGJcescdNUSSBCKLJvYx?si=da3d7b1e4ef34498
https://www.instagram.com/melttheband/
https://www.facebook.com/melttheband
This is their inaugural nation-wide tour; we had missed them several times playing in NYC, so what a great coincidence to see them in Chicago. Marlo got me a photo pass, and you bet I was cruising around the stage with my Fuji medium format big gun (and iced ankle).








What’s next — they are playing in Berkeley / CA later this year; backstage pass and more photos & videos.
Or catch them on October 20 in Webster Hall, NYC.
Go Marlo & Go Melt !
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Day 8 – Michigan pop quiz

Sept. 14 Vermilion/OH - Port Clinton/OH - New Buffalo/MI Total driving so far 1,005 miles / 1,608km.
New Buffalo-on-google.maps
Driving from Vermilion westbound along the Lake Erie shore front to Port Clinton was very relaxing with large houses on the beach front, a broad straight road with hardly any traffic and big sky. We stopped for a classic diner snack in Port Clinton and then drove onwards to Chicago. Turned out we had a disconnect with our apartment host in Chicago and they expected us one day later than what we thought. We checked the weather forecast, Wednesday was supposed to be sunny and warm at 78F/24C, so why not hit another beach town – this time New Buffalo on Lake Michigan, ‘the gateway to Michigan‘. I am not making this up.
(Sidebar comment: generally these kind of tag lines, whether for towns, cities, corporate mission statements or company value statements are easy to interpret: ‘large global business’ means small national business; ‘we value transparency’ means that information is only reluctantly shared by management. Why state what is reality, everybody would know that to be true anyhow. So assume the exact opposite to be the true state of affairs.)
Now to the pop quiz: Question #1: what has Karin been drawing in the sand in the photo above?
Question #2: what are the tiny bumps on the horizon in this New Buffalo sunset?

Question #3: what kind of animal skeleton has Karin transformed into a pin?

Well, I think you don’t know (she is smiling…), but if you do, leave a comment.
And hey, we discovered the Michigan-manufactured version of the Green Egg: The Green Bug !

this photo specifically for Micael… -
Day 6 – Vermilion, Ohio, or swimming across America

Sept. 12 Niantic/CT - Mountain Lakes - Vermilion/OH. Total driving so far 746 miles / 1,194km.
Vermilion-on-google.maps
Heading out on Interstate 80 towards Chicago felt good … finally going. Go West, a classic theme.
We chose to sleep over rather than driving to Chicago in one day, we want to see more of this country. Looked on our brand new NatGeo US road atlas, and decided to spend the night in the ‘crowning jewel of the south shore of Lake Erie‘, Vermilion’s self definition. Vermilion is actually a nice beach town. This time of the year its quiet, decelerating your mind, and we managed to hop into the lake the next morning. And I learned something interesting.
Karin seems to be motivated to …swim across America.
She wants to jump and swim into any puddle of water we come across. Well, Lake Erie is definitely worth trying and so we did. One down and you bet, many more to come.

after an early morning swim in Vermilion, Lake Erie -
Day 4&5 – Niantic, Connecticut

Sept. 10,11 Mountain Lakes - Niantic/CT. Total driving so far 143 miles / 229km.
Niantic-Rocky-Neck-State-Park-on-google.maps
Fantastic weekend at our friends Esti & Philipp in Niantic.
Lots of fun talking, eating together, and of course beach time.
The town has a relaxing vibe, and even more so our friends.
Thank You, Switzerland 🙂
Karin turning into a beach-yogi -
Day 1 – Houseless for 324 days

Mountain Lakes driveway Total driving so far 0 miles / 0km
September 7. We finally did it.
It turned out to be a lot of work to rent our house, pack and leave. Getting ready seemed to be more work than the actual doing. Busyness, sometimes turning into stress, overshadowing the excitement of the upcoming unknown.
We made the decision to rent 2 months prior to leaving. One would think plenty of time. What fixes does the house still need, does one need a rental contract, changing the homeowners insurance, is the car in good shape (impossible to answer for our Jeep), do we need a roof box on the Jeep for the luggage, can we finish the bathroom renovation a-z (we could not), how about the other car and motorbike, is it crazy to take the instantpot, what documents to bring, business outfit for conferences and meetings … and of course the question which cameras to take on the trip !
All of this got secondary to the painful question about the health of our blacklab-mix Leica. But that is another story and post, when I feel ready to write about that.
But on September 7 we left for good 🙂